A Report from New York Times
36 Hours in Kolkata
By DAN PACKEL
Published: November 25, 2012
CONTEMPORARY narratives of resurgent
India frequently sidestep the city of Kolkata, also known as Calcutta, the
capital of the state of West Bengal and the seat of power during the British
Raj. The city's political clout has long since shifted to New Delhi, and its
economic might more recently to Mumbai. Yet its reputation as an intellectual
and cultural hub still lingers - five Nobel Prize winners are associated with
the city, including the economist Amartya Sen and the
poet-novelist-painter-songwriter Rabindranath Tagore. But like the rest of
India, this clamorous yet charming city is changing: in 2011, the
democratically elected Communist government of West Bengal was voted out of
power after 34 years. For many Bengalis, this political transition reflects a
desire to catch up with the rest of India. Visitors exploring Kolkata today are
in a position to glimpse an emerging urban modernity but still have the
opportunity to explore the city's rich past, which, for now, remains
unavoidable at every step.
Friday, 3 p.m.
1. THE SEAT OF POWER
Known during the colonial era as
Dalhousie Square, B.B.D. Bagh sits at the political heart of Kolkata. Sidestep
the food vendors selling omelets and dosas to the area's office workers from
their sidewalk perches, and admire the colonial buildings where British
commerce and administrative functions were once carried out. The most prominent
of these is the Writers Building, on the north side of the square, a columnated
red brick edifice constructed in 1776 that serves as the seat of the state
government, and is now in the hands of the Trinamool Congress party.
5:30 p.m.
2. GALLERY STOP
In the early part of the 20th
century, the style of art known as the Bengal School achieved national
prominence from its base in Kolkata, exemplified by the works of the painter
Abanindranath Tagore, Rabindranath Tagore's nephew. These muted watercolors, a
response to the purported materialism of Western art, emphasized spiritual and
natural themes. Though the influence of the school has long since dissipated,
Kolkata remains an important locus for Indian art. CIMA, or Center of
International Modern Art (Sunny Towers, 43 Ashutosh Chowdhury Avenue;
91-33-2485-8717; cimaartindia.com), a sleek, modern space in South Kolkata, is
one of the best places to view it. Recent exhibitions have shown the art of
Shreyasi Chatterjee and Paresh Maity, among others.
7:30 p.m.
3. A FULL PLATE
Traditionally, the best way to
experience Bengali food, marked by an enthusiasm for river fish and the sharp
kick of mustard oil, was inside a Bengali home. If you can swing an invitation
to dinner, take advantage of it. But with many women refusing to spend so much
time in the kitchen, there are an increasing number of restaurants serving
Bengali fare. Of these, it's tough to beat Kewpie's (2 Elgin Lane;
91-33-2486-1600), on the eclectically decorated ground floor of a residential
bungalow. Come hungry, order the mangshor thali (620 rupees, or $11.50 at 54
rupees to the dollar) and receive your choice of fish, a vegetable and a meat
curry, along with rice, dal, dessert and more.
10 p.m.
4. LOUNGE THEN DANCE
Late nights aren't the same in
Kolkata after the recent imposition of a midnight curfew, but dedicated
partyers now get an earlier start. Settle into a corner seat at Plush (Astor
Hotel, 15 Shakespeare Sarani; 91-33-2282-9957; astorkolkata.com), with a cover
charge of 1,000 rupees for two, applicable to drinks and food. You can enjoy a
cocktail while the soundtrack shifts from house music to Western club hits and
the dance floor begins to fill.
Saturday, 8 a.m.
5. WALKING HISTORY
Economically, Kolkata thrived during
the colonial period, with many Bengalis amassing great wealth through trade and
service in the colonial administration. A walk through the narrow streets of
the city's Sovabazar neighborhood provides a glimpse at the ancestral estates,
which range in style from Islamic to Baroque and beyond, that emerged during
this period. There are also print shops, jewelry workshops and other
enterprises. Rely on an informative guided tour from Calcutta Walks
(91-98301-84030; calcuttawalks.com), which charges 1,500 rupees a person, to
make the most of your venture. Afterward, taste another side of Bengali food at
Bhojohori Manna, attached to the renovated Star Theater (79/3/4 Bidhan Sarani;
91-33-2533-8519; bhojohorimanna.com). If it's available, try the super jumbo
ilish barishali (225 rupees), a thick steak of this local fish served in
mustard sauce.
2 p.m.
6. KAFFEEKLATSCH
Book stalls stuffed with used
textbooks and paperbacks line College Street in front of the University of
Calcutta, as you make your way to the historic Indian Coffee House (15 Bankim
Chaterjee Street; 91-33 2237-5649). Here, in an airy second-floor hall,
generations of Bengali students and intellectuals have engaged in adda, or
spirited discussion, over cups of coffee (15 rupees). Even though the
Communists are out of power, leftist thought remains strong here; on a recent
visit, among the slogans in English and Bengali on a whiteboard on the wall,
someone had written: "Capital is not in crisis. Capitalism is the
crisis."
5 p.m.
7. SHOPPING TIME
While shopping-mall culture has
emerged in the city's newer neighborhoods in the south and the east, the
sprawling New Market (Lindsay Street) still surges with crowds. The name refers
to the covered S. S. Hogg Market, but informally it also refers to the shopping
arcades surrounding the complex. Shop for pashmina shawls and curios, admire
richly detailed saris and other fabrics, or simply marvel at the range of items
on offer here, from flowers to feather-dusters to foodstuffs. If you need a
snack, head to Nizam's (23-24 Hogg Street; 91-98-3619-4669). It is said to be
the progenitor of the kathi roll - a paratha (flatbread) that's cooked in an
egg, then rolled up around mutton or chicken spiced with fresh lime juice, red
onion, finely chopped green chili, and salt - that is now found in cities
across India (35 rupees).
8 p.m.
8. TOUCHPAD DINING
Take a breather from Bengali food at
Bistro by the Park (2A, Middleton Row; 91-33-2229-6494), which opened in 2011
with a menu created by the British expat chef Shaun Kenworthy. The menu at this
50-seat restaurant arrives on iPads and features salads, pastas, pizzas,
Southeast-Asian-influenced dishes and, in a concession to Bengali tastes, fish
(here, bhetki) in mustard sauce. Dinner for two, including two glasses of
Italian or Australian wine, is about 1,800 rupees.
10:30 p.m.
9. ROCK 'N' ROLL
Park Street was once lined with clubs
where one could hear jazz and other Western sounds, but since 1997, the city's
rock music scene has been dominated by one spot: Someplace Else, inside the
Park Hotel (17 Park Street; 91-33-2249-9000;
theparkhotels.com/kolkata/kolkata.html). With brass lamps, iron railings and
brick walls, the room nicely approximates a dingy pub (save for its location
inside a boutique hotel). On a given night, the small, deep stage in the back
of the room might host a talented cover band playing the Doors and Foreigner,
or a rising Bengali act like Friends of Fusion.
Sunday, 7 a.m.
10. DIM SUM?
At its political and economic apex,
Kolkata drew immigrants not just from elsewhere in India, but from around the world.
Jewish, Armenian, Parsi and Chinese communities blossomed here. And while most
are in steep decline, Sunday mornings provide a vivid (and tasty) opportunity
to interact with the remnants of the city's Chinese population. Wake early and
stop by Tiretta Bazar (the intersection of Chatawala Gali and Sun Yat Sen
Streets), the city's old Chinatown, which springs to life at 6 a.m. with
vendors - interspersed with vegetable sellers - spread out curbside dispensing
steamed buns, dumplings, soups and other dim sum staples.
10 a.m.
11. STATELY MONUMENT
Exchange the din of the city for
relative serenity on the manicured grounds of the Victoria Memorial Hall (1
Queen's Way; 91-33-2223-1890; victoriamemorial-cal.org); entry 150 rupees for
non-Indian citizens. Built over 15 years in the first part of the 20th century,
the domed white marble hall serves as a reminder of the grandiosity behind the
British colonial project. Stroll along the lawns and spot egrets and parrots in
flight (along with young couples canoodling on benches in the shade) before
entering the memorial. Inside, you'll find colonial-era lithographs and oil
paintings, and an extensive local history display, running from the city's
origins to the present.
IF YOU GO
On bustling Park Street, the Park Hotel (17 Park Street, 91-33-2249-9000;
theparkhotels.com/kolkata/kolkata.html) maintains a fashionable contemporary
feel (and remains a hotbed of night life) after four decades. The hotel's
communal areas host an impressive display of contemporary Bengali art. Rooms
start at 9,000 rupees (about $167); discounts available online.
An oasis of calm close to the
Rabindra Sarovar Metro Station in South Kolkata, the Bodhi
Tree (48/44 Swiss Park; 91-33-2424-6534; bodhitreekolkata.com) offers
six themed rooms around a communal space that serves as garden, art gallery and
cafe. Rooms start at 2,200 rupees.
Posted on 28th November,
2012
posted by Debabrata Dey @ 1:04 AM
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